Coconut-Lemon Cake

You tend to let cooking fall by the wayside as soon as stress gets the better of you. Baking in particular. Yet you know that the careful measuring of flour, sugar, butter and all the other ingredients interrupt the dark rumblings of your mind. Strange how sometimes you avoid the very things that will make you feel better.

The solution (‘simple, why is it always so simple’): do it anyway. The seemingly irksome task of gathering the ingredients and then measuring them out makes you feel a bit lighter, in spite of your inner protestations (‘you could just buy a cake and save yourself the trouble’). Even preparing the pan seems to ward of a negative thought that was just starting to unpack itself (‘why do you always…wait, you could use the melted coconut oil to oil the pan’).

When the batter comes together (‘does it seem to too dry?’) you suddenly dare to hope that this just might work out. And when the cake emerges from the oven, even though it’s a bit sunken in the middle, your heart flickers, if only for a moment. And you realize: ‘it’s time to get on with it’.

Madeleines

I like Madeleines. The only thing is that they’re best eaten warm on the same day that they’re baked. Granted, there are bigger problems in the baking world and beyond. And besides, all the more reason to pack them up and hand them out to friends and neighbors.

I was thinking about Madeleines made with buckwheat and honey. Browsing through my cookbooks I came across a recipe in an old cookbook (The Flavour of France by the Chamberlains) with a technique that sounded intriguing: mixing the eggs and the sugar over a double boiler. The recipe was simple, which was precisely what I was looking for. But I decided to adapt it a bit and to substitute some of the all-purpose flour for buckwheat flour and to add some honey. Also, the recipe did not call for baking powder. Seeing that I was already tempting faith by making some substitutions and altering the scale of the recipe (I only had three eggs instead of the four called for in the recipe) I decided that I would add half a teaspoon. Most other recipes I’ve seen also call for an hour (sometimes more) resting time in the fridge, so I added that step as well.

I’m quite happy with the result. Some bakers prefer a very pronounced hump on their Madeleines. I’ve never really understood why, I’m more interested in the scalloped edge. However, if you’re in search for a technique to produce a more pronounced hump check out Dorie Greenspan’s blog http://doriegreenspan.com/2011/07/if-i-cant-remember-when.html or better yet her cookbook Baking Chez Moi, which has recipes for both lemon and black-and-white marbled Madeleines.

Madeleines

Makes about 18  

70 grams all purpose flour

50 grams buckwheat flour

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

3 eggs

75 grams sugar

1 tablespoon honey

100 grams melted butter

Combine the flours, salt and baking powder and sift.

Melt the butter and boil gently until the solids begin to brown and remove from heat.

In a double boiler whisk the eggs and sugar over barely simmering water. Whisk until the mixture is creamy and lukewarm to the touch. Remove the mixture form the heat, add honey and continue whisking until it returns to room temperature.

Using a spatula gently fold the flour into the egg mixture until almost combined and big lumps have disappeared. Pour in the melted butter and mix until the batter is smooth being careful not to over mix.

Put the mixture in the fridge and chill for at least one hour.

About 30 minutes before baking turn on the oven to 200 C (400 F) and butter and flour the molds.

Fill the molds two-thirds full. If you're using classic sized mold bake in the oven for approximately 10 minutes. If your molds are smaller start checking the Madeleines after 6 minutes. To check the Madeleines press down on the centre, they should spring back.

Remove from molds and let cool slightly. Dust with powdered sugar.

Makes about 18 Madeleines 

I'm in Paris

I’m in Paris because I’m looking for something.

After a wonderful early dinner with friends I wandered off into the city, not really sure where I was going but enjoying the slight drizzle of rain, umbrella in hand. I decided to head towards the Louvre, walking past restaurants, café’s, corner markets, galleries and shops with beautiful windows. I did feel my heart stir a little.

I arrived at the Louvre and turned to look at the car lights on the Champs Elysees, white on the left and red on the right, and I wondered what it was that I was looking for. I turned back and walked past the glass pyramid and through an underpass where tourists, in full rain gear and on bikes, were listening to their guide.

Reaching the inner courtyard something flashed through my mind and I stopped. Windows… I remembered that louvre window/shutters originated from the Louvre. I also heard that all of them were removed, but that there was one window that still had them. I’ve tried looking for them before, but never found it. I didn’t know where the window was located or even if the story was true. But I was happy to have something specific to look for.

I walked around for thirty minutes studying the windows. At one point I was half expecting a guard to come up to me to see who this person was that was walking around inspecting windows and taking pictures with his phone.

I didn’t find the window. I’m still not sure whether it actually exists. I know it’s a Google search away but I’m not looking it up just yet. By not knowing I can still look and hope to find it while my heart beats expectantly as I round the next corner. 

Dark-Chocolate Spelt Brownies

All-purpose flour seems to be on its way out. Recipes are popping up using different kinds of flours, which are supposed to be healthier for you. To me this does not make sense unless it concerns a recipe for bread. Switching from all-purpose to spelt, or any other flour or grain for that matter, is not going to make your baked goods healthy. Recipes still call for sugar, butter and all kinds of other great-tasting-but-not-particuarly-good-for-you ingredients. Having said that I do like to experiment with different flours because they can add a new flavor dimension or texture. Spelt is lovely because it adds a subtle sweetness. Try it out and see what you think.

120 grams (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

170 grams (6 oz) dark chocolate, chopped

150 grams (3/4 cup) granulated sugar

150 grams (3/4 cup) brown sugar

3 large eggs

30 grams (1/4 cup) unsweetened cocoa powder

½ teaspoon salt

95 grams (3/4 cup) spelt flour

3 tablespoons cocoa nibs (optional)

Preheat the oven to 165 C (350F). Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper.

Combine the chocolate and the butter in a pan and heat over a very low flame. Stir mixture until just melted and remove from heat. Whisk in sugars until combined. Whisk in one egg at a time, being careful to incorporate it fully before adding the next one. In a separate bowl combine the cocoa, flour and salt and stir to combine. Add the cocoa mixture to the chocolate mixture and fold in until combined.

Pour batter into the baking pan and make sure the batter is distributed evenly. Add cocoa nibs to the top. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, when pressing the middle of the brownie it should bounce back slightly. Remove from the oven and with a sharp knife carefully slice along the sides. Let the brownie cool for 15 minutes. Invert on a cutting board, remove the parchment paper and slice the brownie upside down into 16 pieces. Lay another cutting board on top and invert again.

Recipe adapted from Martha Stewart Living Magazine, January 2014.

Cranberry Upside-Down Cake

This is not your average holiday cake. It’s rather simple and the cranberry topping is quite tart. It makes for a nice contrast to the traditional holiday desserts, which tend to be very sweet. You could balance the tartness by serving it with ice cream or sweetened whipped cream. If you’re still skeptical then double the amount of sugar and taste the cooked mixture to see if it is sweet enough for your taste. As far as the Jack Daniels goes, you could omit it or substitute it with another spirit such as orange liqueur (Curacao!) or cognac. Or double it; it’s the holiday season after all.

For the pan

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

For the cranberry topping

170 grams (2 cups) fresh or frozen cranberries

50 grams (¼ cup) brown sugar

3 tablespoons Jack Daniels

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the cake

85 grams (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

160 grams (1 ¼ cups) all-purpose flour

100 grams (½ cup) white sugar

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

200 milliliters (2/3 cup) milk

Preheat the oven to 165 C (350 F). Butter a 20 cm (9 inch) cake pan, using most of it to cover the bottom. Flour the sides of the pan by holding it vertically, adding the flour turning the pan. Remove excess flour and put pan aside.

In a small pot over a medium flame heat the cranberries, brown sugar, Jack Daniels and vanilla extract. Cook until most cranberries have burst and the mixture starts to resemble a loose jam, 3-5 minutes. Set aside.

In an electric mixer beat the butter until soft. Beat in the egg and the vanilla. In a separate bowl mix the flour, white sugar, baking powder and salt. Stir the mixture with a whisk to combine the ingredients. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in three additions alternating with the milk. Be careful not to over mix.

Add the cranberry mixture to the bottom of the pan and top with the cake batter, smoothing the top.

Bake for 30-40 minutes, checking after 25 minutes. The top should be brown and the sides should start to come away from the pan just a little bit. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Run a knife along the inside of the pan and invert cake onto a cake stand or a platter.

Tuscan awakenings

Waking up in a new place is always exciting. This morning I wondered what the weather would be like outside because when we arrived yesterday afternoon it was dark due to a heavy rainstorm. The shade was still down but the light was finding its way in. For some reason I didn't want to pull up the shade yet. To freeze the moment for just a little while. Not knowing what the view would be like and what it would stir within.

Chocolate Chocolate Chip Cookies

Sometimes you want to keep things simple. When I don't feel like spending a lot of time in the kitchen I bake simple cookies. The cocoa makes these a grownup version of a childhood favourite although kids will probably not pass these up. The sea salt that's sprinkled on top of the dough counteracts the sweetness. This also works well on brownies and other sweet baked goods. 

250 grams (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

235 grams (1 1/3 cups) brown sugar

220 grams (1 cup) white sugar

2 eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

350 grams (2 1/3 cups) all-purpose flour, sifted

35 grams (1/3 cup) cocoa, sifted

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

200 gram bar of chocolate, chopped into small chunks

1 tablespoon sea salt flakes

Preheat the oven to 160C (325F). In an electric mixer beat the butter and the sugars on medium for 5 minutes. The mixture should look creamy. Scrape down the sides and make sure the mixture is well combined.

Combine the eggs and vanilla extract. Add half to the mixture and mix well. Repeat with the other half.

Combine the flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda and teaspoon of salt. Add the flour and beat on medium to combine. Be sure not to over mix. Add the chocolate chunks and with a spatula stir them into the mixture.  

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spoon dough on the sheet using a tablespoon, allow some room between the dough so that it can spread during baking. Sprinkle sea salt flakes on top of the dough.  

Put the baking sheet in the oven and bake for around 12 to 14 minutes if you want a chewy cookie. Add another 3 minutes for a crisp cookie. Allow to cool.

Makes about 36 cookies. 

Vanilla Plum Jam

Recently I've been resisting buying jam. I guess because jam is so easy to make it seems beside the point. Although I like the end result, I really enjoy the process of making jam: cleaning and slicing the fruit, adding sugar and some additional complimentary flavourings and then combining it all and stirring it in a thick bottomed pot until it becomes syrupy. The stirring is not so much meditative as it is repetitive. It gives you time to mull things over. As a bonus you get to give a jar to a friend. Or maybe to that person you now realise, having stirred the jam for 30 minutes, you didn't treat fairly. What's not to love about that? 

1 kg (1 lb) plums

500 grams (1/2 lb) sugar

1 /2 teaspoon salt

1 vanilla bean

Wash the plums and cut them in half, removing the pit. Cut each half into thirds and put in a heavy bottom-ed pot.

Split the vanilla bean and use a spoon to remove the seeds. Add the vanilla seeds, bean, sugar and salt to the pot. 

Turn heat to medium and bring to a boil. Skim any foam that rises to the surface. Keep at a soft boil and keep stirring until thickened, about 30 -35 minutes.

To test the jam put a teaspoon in a small saucer and put this in the freezer for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and check the consistency which should be a soft jelly. If too runny continue cooking the jam for a couple more minutes and check again. 

Spoon jam into clean jam jars and keep refrigerated. The jam will keep in the fridge for about 3 weeks.